To achieve these shapes padding (bombast) and quilting, together with the use of whalebone or buckram for stiffening purposes, were used to gain this geometric effect. The style of the doublet was designed for the emphasis to be on the shoulders and hips. Short skirt-like additions were made, creating Peplum Doublets, simply called peplums, covering the waist of the hose or breeches. The fashions were designed to give the impression of a small waist - especially desired by the women but also emulated by men who wore tight waisted, stiffened doublets. Men would sometimes wear girdles, the equivalent of the female corset, to obtain the wasp waisted look.The Codpiece
Elizabethan Doublets for Women
Elizabethan Women's fashion sometimes emulated that of a man and this included the doublet. The women's doublet was often designed to be left open from the bustline up. The style of the women's doublet were tight and emphasised the waist.
Elizabethan Doublets for Men
The style and fashion of the men's doublets and ranged from a wasp-waisted, geometric look to the 'peascod doublet' which the area of the belly was padded although the sides of the doublet were well fitted achieving a slim waisted look. The trim on doublets were designed and positioned to enhance the geometric, triangular, shape of broad shoulders and a slim waist. Doublets were fastened at the front. The sleeves were a seperate item and were often worn in different colors, materials and patterns. Sleeve attachments at the shoulder were disguised by decorative wings. The length of the doublet changed with the fashion of the day from waist length to mid thigh. Doublets were extremely uncomfortable and hot to wear. They were for formal occasions and courtly attire. More comfortable loose garments, similar to housecoats, were worn when the nobility were not on show.
Materials and Fabrics used for Elizabethan Doublets
The materials that doublets were made of were expensive - silk, satin, velvet, taffeta, and sarcenet (Sarcenet was a delicate silk fabric). Many of these sumptuous materials and the dyes to produce their rich colors were imported, at great expense, from the continent. The fabrics were further embellished with fine needlework and embroidery and decorated with jewels, spangles, pearls. Cloth of Silver, Tinselled satin, silk, or cloth mixed or embroidered with any gold were often worn. Tinsell was a fabric was had a metallic sheen but was less expensive than gold or silver.
The Elizabethan Fashion of Slashed Doublets
The limitations of Elizabethan dress and clothing led to a new fashion being created. Both men and women began to slash their clothes. The slash or cut in the outer surfaces of garments, which included doublets, exposed the contrasting color of the linings beneath. The linings would be pulled through the slash and puffed out to further emphasize the contrast of colors, fabrics and materials. An alternative to the 'slashed' garment was to 'pink' the material. Pinking was cutting a specific shape, commonly a diamond shape, from the garment to allow the fabric beneath to be pulled through - a more delicate form of slashing.
Interesting Facts and Information about Elizabethan Doublets
Some interesting facts and confirmation of information about Elizabethan doublets can be obtained from the words of Philip Stubbes. A first hand impression of the fashions of the Elizabethan era are invaluable - but the Elizabethan style of writing can be hard going. The following information has therefore been taken from the points he made on Elizabethan doublets:
- The length of doublets at least reached the 'privy parts' and often reached the thighs
- Doublets were stuffed, quilted and bombasted
- Bombast was a stuffing for doublets and other garments, stretching them out and eliminating all folds and creases
- Bombast stuffing consisted of rags, horsehair, cotton, or even bran ( the outer layer of grains such as wheat or oats, removed during the milling process)
- 4 to 6 pound of bombast might be used in one doublet
- Doublets were hot to wear because of all the stuffing and movement was restricted
- The Peascod doublet - making a man look inclined to gluttony.
- Styles of doublets slashed, jagged, cut, carved, pincked and laced with all kinds of different colors
- The materials that doublets were made of:
- Grograine ( A costly, fine ribbed material)
- Chamlet ( A costly, fine woollen cloth)
- Gold and Silver